Hey chickadees! Coming at you live from somewhere in Europe, where air conditioning doesn’t exist but neither does hyperinflation!

I promise we’ll be back to our regular Tutti Frutti shenanigans shortly, but in the meantime here’s a little travelogue of the first two weeks of my adventures across the Old Continent.

Miss you, love you, don’t forget me!

🌋 Week 1: Iceland

I’m still riding the high of exploring Iceland and its bonkers-level beauty. It was such an unforgettable trip for a million reasons, a few of which include its fabulously quirky people who happen to have a great sense of humor, the absolutely stunning landscapes that don’t even seem real, and the perfectly-curated experiences that anchored our agenda for the entire week.

I would return in a heartbeat and encourage anyone who has the chance to get on the first flight into Reykjavík if possible. Sure, it’s kind of expensive and you definitely need some uber-practical, kinda dorky footwear, but you’ll also feel the Earth breathe? And want to roll around in the moss and bogs? And start to believe in elves?

🇮🇸 Top 5 Iceland Moments

💎 Diamond Beach & Glacier Lagoon

One of Iceland’s biggest draws is its rugged natural beauty. Active volcanoes, expansive lava fields, pristine freshwater lakes, massive glaciers… and that’s just the tip of the iceberg (pun certainly intended, of course).

By exploring the southern coast, we were able to visit the famous Glacier Lagoon and Diamond Beach located within the vast Vatnajökull National Park. Although the wind was blowing something fierce, bluebird skies and radiant sunshine created a spectacular backdrop. It was invigorating and renewing. Shout out to the weather gods, love u.

Maybe I’m a weirdo, but I found a dead seabird’s foot on the beach and brought it back to the hotel with me, which horrified and disgusted 99.9% of the people I was traveling with. For the record, it was essentially freeze-dried by nature thanks to the salty-ass air and gale-force winds blowing across the black sand beach, so it wasn’t like, rotting or anything. But whatever.

However, since I didn’t want to get stopped by customs at the UK border for trafficking a biohazard, I eventually left her nestled among the moss and rocks next to a geothermal hot spring. A fitting end to the whole week, I think.

🌿 The Fischersund Universe

I’ve been a huge Sigur Ros fan since I was 16, so visiting Iceland definitely felt like a bucket list-level moment. Imagine my added joy when our design walk afternoon with uber-spectacular trip leader Eygló took us to Fischersund, a boutique fragrance house owned by Jónsi and his siblings. 

We were taken on a full sensorial journey, immersed in nostalgic memories and the magic of childhood spent outdoors and heady recollections of late summer nights that turn into early mornings. Each scent is accompanied by a poem that transports you to the exact moment and sensation that it’s meant to evoke.

For example:

Brand new sneakers, crushing fresh flower stalks against hot asphalt.
Mouth full of lemon candy and fingers sticky with motor oil.
Stolen rhubarb from a neighbor's garden, peeled, slathered in honey and chewed on.
Orange cake crumble in the pocket of freshly washed clothes.
Arctic wind blowing through hair in a damp pine forest.

It was a uniquely poignant and inspiring visit. The best part? The brand ships to the U.S., so if you don’t have a transatlantic trip in your future, you don’t have to miss out.

Fischersund

🔮 Jónsi: Flóð at the Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarhús

Sorry (not sorry) for staying on the Sigur Ros train a little longer, but whatever. Who knows when I’ll be in Iceland again?! Let me live! We were fortunate enough to catch the tail end of Flood, Jónsi’s first solo exhibition in Europe, and I was so glad we had time to experience it. 

Four works essentially took over the Hafnarhús art museum, inviting the audience to be enveloped by sound, light, and space. Inspired and driven by nature as the all-encompassing force, Flood was a multi-sensory, 360° experience underscoring the deep bond between humans and the environment. 

Trippy and intense and captivating, each space felt like being on drugs (in a good way. In fact, all of Iceland feels like that). Gaining another glimpse into the creative mind and psyche of an artist that I admire so much was an added bonus that made me fall in love with Iceland even more. Being a fan girl is fun! I highly recommend it. 

Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarhús

🌭 Hot Dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

If I told you Iceland was famous for its hot dogs, would you believe me? Probably not, but joke’s on you! This little island of weird viking fairies knows what they’re doing when it comes to the MVP of street food.

Known as pylsa, they’re primarily made of lamb, pork, and beef. What about the toppings? Think onions (both fresh and fried), ketchup, and Iceland brown mustard known as pylsusinnep. It’s a cheap and cheerful meal that was an unexpectedly delicious addition to our brief jaunt around Reykjavik. 

In fact, we loved these glizzies so much it was the last thing we ate before leaving Iceland entirely. Never underestimate the power of a weenie, people!  

Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur

😱 Screaming Into the Void

A girl’s gotta get cathartic, you know? I find nature to be the best place to do this. Standing on the edge of something so much larger than you will ever be, reminded of your small (yet significant) place in this vast universe, is comforting to me in a way that I often struggle to articulate. 

From our hotel one morning, we walked through a lea/bog to an isolated black sand beach, watched the waves churn and crash and roar, and let out a scream so primal that I’m certain it reset my entire nervous system.

It felt good. Really good. I was able to let go of the lingering pain and sadness after a rough couple of years and make room for lighter, brighter energy. 5/5 stars. 

🪩 Bonus Track: DJ Fun Dad

I’m typically not a fan of binaries, but it often seems like in life you’re either Airport Dad™️ or Fun Dad™️. You get one chance to guess which I identify with the most.

Anyway, Lau is clearly Fun Dad, and one of her skills in the department of diversion is curating excellent playlists. We had several long drives in between waterfalls and elf houses, meaning she had the chance to really strut her metaphorical stuff.

Since I love you, and since we can always use a bit of a refresh when it comes to discovering new music, I’m sharing the link to her Iceland-inspired playlist below. Enjoy!

💗 Week 2: London

It was harder to say goodbye to Iceland than I anticipated, but I had a very exciting next stop on the agenda: London to see my sister (for the first time in five years!) and meet two of my three nieces for the first time (!!). Besides, London is always a good idea, so I was chuffed to be back in the land of curry and PG Tips. 

The days flew by, and I found myself wishing I could’ve posted up at my sister’s for an unspecified amount of time to really weave myself into the fabric of their daily life. I grew to love the predictable routine of morning school drop-off and afternoon pick-up, pre-bedtime rituals of reading books and listening to nonsensical stories, and trying to understand Paw Patrol in Italian. 

🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿 Top 3 London Moments

🥲 Zia Paigey Mode

Soaking up my precious nieces - Clementina, Sole, and Olivia - was the highlight of my year. The last time I saw my sister was back in 2019, in Rome; Clem was just over a year old and barely walking in the Air Force Ones I impractically gifted her.

How life has changed for them since then! A move to Singapore, two more babies (!), a return to London. It’s like we skipped ahead several chapters and I was suddenly playing a rabid game of catch-up. 

I’m happily childfree (and will continue to be), but I cherish my role of Zia Paigey deeply. Impish giggles, an oversupply of stuffed animals and books, the tiniest of barrettes. Wiping away tears after fleeting waves of toddler frustration, braiding half-brushed hair after breakfast, and providing an endless supply of snacks to keep the peace. 

In essence: girlhood. 

Saying goodbye was almost unbearable; everyone was out of sorts that day, even the dog. One thing’s for sure - it won’t be another five years before I see them again.   

🔥 The Vinyl Factory: Reverb Exhibit at 180 Studios

With limited time on the agenda and a home base located in Zone 3, tourism wasn’t the focus of the trip, but I did want to carve out some time for a little cultural exploration. Thanks to a recommendation from an old friend and former colleague, I caught wind of The Vinyl Factory: Reverb at 180 Studios in Covent Garden. 

The multimedia exhibition was an in-depth exploration of the relationship between art and sound, showcasing the Vinyl Factory’s myriad collaborations with artists and musicians over the past 20 years. Site-specific installations and sonic experiences wound through an underground Brutalist maze, inviting you to linger and absorb it all in a meditative, deliberate manner. 

It was just the dose of “city cool” that I needed, followed by a spicy Wagamama lunch and some super-juicy window-shopping which made me loathe that half my suitcase was already chock-full of Iceland-related nature gear I wouldn’t even be using for the remainder of the trip. 

🌶️ Curry Extravaganza

One of my favorite parts of traveling abroad is enjoying easy access to spicy food (and Asian cuisine in general). The hotter, the better. Give me all of the noodles. The curries. The sambals. The chutneys. The soups. I can’t get enough, truly. So much so, in fact, that we actually went for an (extremely expensive lol) bowl of ramen in Reykjavík because I was jonesing for something a little jazzier than grilled whitefish. 

My sister lives near an area brimming with Indian and Pakistani restaurants and markets, which is truly my idea of heaven. I indulged in vindaloo, matar paneer, chili chicken, and loads of coconut rice. I tried Sri Lankan food for the first time at the incredible Rambutan near Borough Market, and tucked into the aforementioned Wagamama quickie nosh for old time’s sake. 

It was everything I needed and then some. I love Argentina, I really do, but when I’m reminded of how limited our local spicy options are, I feel pangs that make me question the decision to live in a land of such bland palates. 

I’m currently en route to Porto from Lisbon as you read this. After that, I’ll be making my way from Madrid up through Basque Country, one pinxto at a time. After not enjoying a proper extended holiday for the last five years, it feels good to explore new places by walking 25,000 steps every day.

As always, you can follow along in real-time by checking out my Instagram, but if you’re into delayed gratification, the next installment of Tutti Frutti will include all of the second-half highlights.

Until next time,

Paige

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