#16: 365 party girl?

I don’t like to think of myself as a procrastinator - rather, as someone who isn’t organized - but here I am, less than 24 hours before the newsletter is supposed to go out and I’ve barely written a thing.

Dozens of ideas swirled through my sieve of a brain these last several days, but I haven’t had enough time to sit with them long enough to trust that they can hold water.

In short: don’t be like me, kids.

This sensation of accelerated chaos is typical of the current context, and only promises to intensify over the coming weeks. You know what they say - en Argentina, el que se aburre es porque quiere.

In the spirit of being honest (and recognizing that you can’t produce hits 100% of the time), we’re going to get straight to the point with a stripped-down, no filler delivery this week.

Here Is a List of Things, I Hope You Like It

🔮 Where I’ve Been Lately

I had an absolutely fantastic first trip of my busy season with Wild Terrains. After nearly six months off, I was worried I’d be a bit rusty. In reality, it’s like riding the best bicycle of them all. Sure, it’s demanding at times, and being away for two weekends in a row is tough, but I quickly remember to get over myself - don’t worry.

Zonda at Lagarde

One of the best meals and experiences a person can have in Mendoza, without a doubt. Its Michelin stars (yes, they were awarded a Green one as well) more than well-deserved. Arriving at the winery before sunset, taking a stroll through the vines and vegetable gardens with a glass of artisanal vermouth in hand, and sitting down for an unforgettable farm to table meal — what more could you ask for?

Zonda | Lagarde Winery - Mayor Drummond, Mendoza

Estancia Los Chulengos

I tell all of my travelers that this is where they can live out their best Ralph Lauren catalog / horse girl / rustic luxury fantasies, and it’s true. This working ranch, which has been in the Palma family for over 250 years, played a pivotal role in Argentina’s liberation from Spanish rule. It’s also where I’ve had the best asados of my life (no exaggeration), spent quiet mornings in the company of newborn foals, and gazed at the Milky Way while sprawled out on dewy grass before drifting off to sleep.

Estancia Los Chulengos | La Carrera - Tupungato, Mendoza

Hotel Correntoso

The only time I want to spend an entire day without leaving the hotel while traveling is when I’m at Correntoso. Glorious picture windows that offer stunning views across the pristine lake and snow-dusted Andes watch over you as you tuck into breakfast. Float across the infinity pool and contemplate the magnitude of the landscapes before braving the elements for an unforgettable polar plunge right off the dock down below. Close the day reading by the roaring fire in the wood-paneled library before pinching yourself and wondering how you got so lucky.

Hotel Correntoso | Villa La Angostura

🤸🏻‍♀️ 3 Places in BA I Want to Try

As usual, heaps of new spots have opened up all over town in the last few months. I’ll never not be inspired by the perseverance and persistence of Argentine entrepreneurs, especially in the hospitality space. Either that or they’re gluttons for punishment.

I like to allow for a couple of months to find their sea legs before I pay a visit, but I might just throw caution into the wind and give ‘em a whirl before I’m back on the road.

Ness

Watch out, Chacalegiales! Nuñéz is coming in hot. The newest kid on the block is Ness by Leo Lanussol (you might remember him from the glory days of Proper. Ugh I still dream about their flan). It’s as buzzy as can be - all the cool kids, etc. etc. - and I can’t wait to snag a table.

Ness | Grecia 3691 | Reservations

Bimbi Nilo

I love me a listening bar. Low lighting, cozy couches, great music? Sign me up. Seemingly in tandem with the boom of omakase spots, a new crop of vinyl-forward cocktail bars are making inroads across town. A friend told me about Bimbi and after a quick perusal of their Instagram I was hooked (I’ll admit its proximity to my house / distance from Chacarita was an influencing factor). I plan on heading over for a martini and dark corner makeout sesh in the coming weeks, so I’ll keep you posted.

Bimbi Nilo | Pagano 2750

Barcito Brutalista

Am I officially back in my cocktail era? Listen, I’ll always be loyal to my copita de vino, but sometimes a girl just wants something a little more fun. Besides, with warmer weather on the horizon I’m not really eager for an accidental red wine headache, y’know? This spot is conveniently located underneath Gordochanta, one of my favorite pizza places, so I love it already. The fact that the menu changes often and features small-batch creations is just the icing on the boozy cake.

Barcito Brutalista | Velasco 1200 

🧞‍♀️ 4 Fun Things on the Horizon

The spring season in Buenos Aires is truly a marathon, not a sprint. You’ll spend an entire week with several plans a day, wondering if you’ll ever have a quiet night at home again. For a brief moment you’ll have a false sense of respite, breathing easy as you think the social agenda is starting to slow down.

You’ll be wrong. You’ll sacrifice sleep, mental health, and billable hours. You’ll take advantage of every sunny afternoon to head to the park, a rooftop, or a friend’s pool. You’ll spend money you shouldn’t (or directamente, que no tenés), and you’ll tell yourself next year will be different. It won’t be. And that’s what is so wonderful.

OpenHouse Buenos Aires

This is like the Lollapalooza of architecture, a weekend full of free activities and events that invites you to sink your teeth into the aesthetic beauty and cultural significance of Buenos Aires.

It’s also when everyone cries that their fingers weren’t fast enough to secure entry to the most sought-after buildings, like Clorindo Testa’s epic Banco Hipotecario located downtown (pictured above). Seriously, tickets are made available at 9am and by 9:01 there’s nothing left. Black Friday, quién te conoce?

You can check out the full agenda and catalog here. In a time when the funding of the arts is in serious jeopardy, I encourage everyone to take advantage of any opportunity to connect with and support cultural exploits such as these.

Jamie xx

Cries in elder millennial 

I don’t know what you were doing in 2009, but I was listening to a lot of The xx. I’m still kicking myself for missing Romy’s show back in May, so when I saw that Jamie xx would pass through town on his latest tour, it wasn’t really up for discussion.

There are still some tickets left, so if you’re keen to shake a tail feather, work it out on the remix, dance ‘til you’re dead, whatever… I’ll see you there.

Air

When it rains, it pours. I’ve been a fan of Air ever since they did the score for The Virgin Suicides, Sofia Coppola’s first film and one that remains a personal favorite of mine. Their 1998 debut studio album Moon Safari is turning 25 (!) so they’ve hit the road in celebration by performing it live for the first time ever.

I’m looking forward to movin’ and groovin’ with those little French touch angels in just a few weeks. I’ve missed going out to see live shows, so I’ve decided that I won’t come up with excuses to not buy tickets anymore. Let this be the nudge you need, too.

Pride

You know the drill. First weekend in November. Wear whatever you want - or nothing at all. Show your support for us, yourself, one another. Remember that our mere existence is political. A parade and a protest. Cover yourself in glitter. Kiss a stranger. Demand justice. Fight for your rights. Fight for other people’s rights. Human rights. Stay safe. Hydrate. Charge your phone. Let loose. Revel in diversity. Who knows how long they’ll let us keep doing this. We belong to one another.

I’ll see you there.

Before You Go

Life in Argentina is uncertain right now (no importa cuando leas esto). It’s hard to not let it get to you, but I’m committed to using this space to look on the bright side. No one knows what’s waiting for us around the bend, but in the meantime we can do our best to cultivate joy and beauty wherever we are.

The only way out is through, and we can only do that if we stick together. After all, la salida es colectiva.

OK, I should go. I’m still trying to secure an appointment for a dengue vaccine (!!!!!!). Despite having plenty of time and opportunity to get it handled before my big trip (and before warmer weather encroached upon us), I kept putting it off and now prospects are nil. Fml.

Things to look forward to: a late-night screening of Rosemary’s Baby at the Cinépolis Recoleta, a bright bouquet of flowers, and a carton of blood orange juice sitting in my fridge.

Until next time,
Paige

Enjoying Tutti Frutti, live in Argentina, and want to support this (and future) creative endeavors? Consider supporting the newsletter by clicking here.