#22: Todo se transforma

It’s funny how quickly things can change, you know? This universal maxim is underscored by living in Argentina, where truly change is the only constant. Living on your toes can be more than exhausting, but it helps you stay nimble and pivot in the face of unexpected obstacles.

The energy for 2025 is decidedly sinister, no matter what hemisphere you find yourself in. Between watching El*n M*sk hold press conferences in the Oval Office to Argentina’s president getting wrapped up in a seriously illegal crypto scam, I think we can all agree that the vibes are 100% off, no?

But it’s not all grim! I found a fabulous midcentury dining room table for a song on Facebook Marketplace. It’s boosted my spirits enough to keep me going for at least another 6-9 months, easy. Oh, and I finally hung up some bookshelves in my office, meaning the mountain of boxes that quietly stared me down every time I walked by my kitchen has shrunk, albeit slightly.

We’re making progress, people! And that’s what it’s all about - I think.

Otherwise, it’s business as usual in Buenos Aires. Sweltering summer temperatures have me dreaming of crisp breezes and deep swimming pools, awards season has me at the cinema on a regular basis, where the a/c is just as much a draw as the films themselves. Pocho has reached ultimate VIP status at Nespresso, which I find delightful and hilarious since I don’t even have a Nespresso machine.

♥️ BA Mine?

Valentine’s Day came and went, as it tends to do. It’s been interesting to trace the evolution of ‘holidays’ like Halloween and Valentine’s and how they’re celebrated here. A decade ago, February 14th was just another night to go to dinner, no need for the pomp and circumstance of a menu specially designed for you and your sweetheart. Now it’s just another amateur night/cash grab that only reminds me how much I like staying home.

But… in the spirit of romance and all things mushy, I thought I would hand-select a few Buenos Aires bits and bobs that still manage to warm the cockles of my heart.

Early Morning Encargado Summit

It’s like an opening credits montage from a Nora Ephron romcom: fresh bluebird skies, early morning light reflecting off of grand Belle Epoque apartments, the city slowly waking up. Doormen tend to their patch of sidewalk, meticulously (if not inefficiently) hosing down every last centimeter of tile while they chat with their colleagues next door. To me, it’s quintessentially porteño, softening my cynical edges in unexpected ways.

The Av. del Libertador & Coronel Diaz Flower Stand

I don’t really care that I can’t afford the beautiful blooms and aromatic arrangements here (to be fair, they’re ridiculously overpriced). This corner of the city - right where the iconic Café Tabac is situated - never fails to put a smile on my face. Pale pink peonies, buttery yellow tulips, deep lavender hydrangea… all of it makes me drool. It’s a temporary reprieve — I close my eyes and dream of an alternate existence where I live in Barrio Parque on a street lined with jacarandas and receive weekly flower deliveries from this spot.

Summer Rooftop Sunsets

I don’t care if it’s cliché. Buenos Aires knows how to do a sunset. Something about watching the sky set aflame over endless rows of high-rises, clouds rippling tangerine and deep violet. I’ll never pass on the chance to soak one up; it’s a reminder of how beautiful and ephemeral life is.

🍷 Gal About Town

Where I’ve been drinking wine and abstaining from current realities.

La Cava de Lucía

Tucked away in Las Cañitas, this wine shop hosts weekly tastings and other events for its loyal community. The selection is well-curated, the service warm and welcoming, and the space downright lovely.

Andrés Arguibel 2884 - Cañitas - Instagram

Pulpería Soler

Cool, compact, and kind of cunty - which I mean as a compliment. A place where gastros hang out, refreshingly removed from the hordes of hipsters wearing Carhartt vests and Salomon sneakers over in Chacarita.

Soler 4358 - Palermo - Instagram

Pain et Vin

A classic that always has a special place in my corazón. Plus, it’s one of the few wine bars open on Sundays, ensuring the swift and successful mollification of pre-week anxieties.

Gorriti 5132 - Palermo - Instagram

📚 Four Things I’ve Read Lately

Full disclosure: This first article is about me (in part). It also tells the story of La Rambla, which by now you know to be my favorite café in the city. A landmark, a meeting point, a refuge.

✨

Speaking of la Rambla, let’s hop across the charco for a moment to Montevideo and partake in one of my preferred activities: walking until my feet feel like they’re going to fall off. This recent NYT piece captures the essence of this sweet, sleepy capital city.

✨

I swear you could hear the city erupt in jubilant celebration when Allie announced that she was (finally) reviving Pick Up the Fork. From the early days of the blogging wild west through the surge of wannabe Instagram personalities and into whatever ~* this *~ era of the world is, Allie’s POV has remained the gold standard for many porteño palates. If you haven’t already, make sure you’re subscribed to her Substack.

✨

If there’s something I enjoy almost as much as eating and drinking, it’s reading about eating and drinking. This is an absolutely delightful feast through the author (and NYT book critic) Dwight Garner’s mind and belly. Perfect for reading in spurts, which is my style as of late thanks to late-onset (?) ADHD (??) undoubtedly worsened by doom scrolling 24/7.

Here’s to hanging there and making the most of it mientras tanto. As always, thanks for reading 💖

Until next time,

Paige

NB: Happy birthday, Deb and Redmere! 🎂🎈🎁

Enjoying Tutti Frutti, live in Argentina, and want to support this (and future) creative endeavors? Consider supporting the newsletter by clicking here.