#26: Triple threat

Hi there. How are things? You know, despite the current global turmoil, economic implosion, and absolute dissolution of the social fabric that holds us together?

Yeah, I’m doing OK too! Thanks for asking.

Inspired by the latest season of The White Lotus, I thought I’d use the rule of three to guide the latest installment of the newsletter.

Anyway, let’s get into it + here is a montage of my emotional journey of the past several days:

Hipster Heaven: BAFICI Week

Every year, rich kids cosplaying as plebes* flock to cinemas around Buenos Aires for what is arguably one of the best events of the year — BAFICI, the international film festival par excellence.

*OK, other people go too, but it’s also full of pretentious snobs but the people watching is truly excellent. 

It’s always a dizzying undertaking trying to comb through the catalogue and schedule, deciding which films are worth seeing at 3 p.m. on a Monday. Once tickets go on sale, the website always crashes, which at this point feels intentional because the organizers must know what an odyssey it is to successfully complete a purchase.

I missed the first week of the festival since I was traveling for work, so I made a special point of researching movies that piqued my interest and committing to get my ass to the theaters. Of course, there’s at least a dozen more that I wish I could see, but here are three that I’ll be checking out in the coming days.

Here we go. Three films I’ll be seeing during this year’s BAFICI.

Magic Farm

A film crew working for an edgy media company travels to Argentina to profile a local musician, but their ineptitude leads them into the wrong country.

O sea, an absurdist comedy starring Chloë Sevigny that takes place in small-town Argentina. Sign. Me. Up. After reading it was coming to BAFICI I was already interested (duh), but the trailer did its job in selling me the fantasy. There’s a pasacalle, there’s cumbia, there’s persianas bajas and mate-drinking in retro kitchens — basically, all of my favorite things.

Glastonbury

As a music lover and millennial that was basically raised on “Kate Moss at Glastonbury” fashion, I was super excited to see this documentary that chronicles the history of the truly epic, mythical, and legendary festival experience that is Glastonbury.

I felt that it ran a bit long, but then realized that the scattered, chaotic, and disorganized approach was most likely an intentional decision. After all, Glastonbury is nothing if not anarchical, chaotic, raw, wild, vibrant, fiercely political, rambling, and (obviously) drug-fueled.

A few other observations I couldn’t help but make: wow, British people really do have terrible teeth; wow, everyone looks like they’re really, really, REALLY smelly and/or could use a very serious hair brushing; wow, all human beings really want is to feel connected to one another, to release ourselves and give in to our most primal of instincts; wow, Michael Eavis is perhaps the coolest Methodist farmer that’s ever walked the Earth.

Also, I definitely didn’t need to see footage of the port-a-potties being cleaned out.

Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist

What’s not to love about Vivienne Westwood? She’s an absolute legend in every way, having ignited the punk movement with then-partner (and Sex Pistols manager) Malcom McLaren, redefining British fashion for nearly a half-century, and changing the fabric of pop culture (literally). I’m eager to check out this documentary, which features archival footage and insightful interviews to paint a portrait of one of the world’s most fascinating women.

Argentine Book Club

After [redacted] years of doom scrolling instead of reading, I’m finally back on the literacy train. I could blame post-COVID burnout, generalized brain rot, or Grade A laziness - all would be accurate villains (or scapegoats) that explain why I’ve lost touch with what has always been one of my preferred pastimes.

I gave myself an extra grace period as I navigated the early days of heartbreak, in which my focus prioritized anything/everything that comforted or soothed me without requiring much (if any) mental lift.

Bueno, now that I’m finding my sea legs, navigating the hours that I have for me, myself, and I, I’ve really enjoyed re-discovering the simple pleasure of curling up with a good book.

In the spirit of literacy, here are three of my favorite books by Argentine authors.

Las Malas, Camila Sosa Villada

The debut novel from Camila Sosa Villada, Las Malas tells the stories of the trans women who live and work near Parque Sarmiento in the Argentine city of Córdoba. It’s a fictionalized autobiography based on Sosa Villada’s own experiences as a trans sex worker in the early aughts.

It’s an absolute powerhouse, written so deftly and beautifully that it moved me to tears. In fact, it’s was one of the first books to break my “I can only read in English” curse — I know, it sucks, but for some reason I find myself gravitating toward material written in my native tongue.

After receiving dozens of accolades, it was announced that the book would be adapted for TV by Armando Bó. Please do yourself a favor and read it before you watch the version made for the silver screen (especially because it will allegedly star the one and only - and very polémica - Karla Sofía Gascón).

No Soy un Bombero pero Tampoco Ando con Puntillas, Silvana Hernando & Alejandra Sardá

This beautiful, important book tells the stories of different lesbians in Argentina between 1930 and 1976 (when the most recent military dictatorship began). After being passed around almost secretly, it was finally published and entered a wider circulation. No soy bombero should be required reading for any member of the queer community - in Argentina or otherwise - as well as our allies. Hell, any student of history will find it fascinating and compelling as well.

At a time when queer rights and women’s rights are under siege (yet again), telling our stories is more primordial than ever. I don’t think there’s an English translation available, unfortunately, but for my Spanish-speaking subscribers — please, please, please read this book.

Fever Dream, Samanta Schweblin

It’s kind of hard to describe this novella, so I will let GoodReads do it for me:

I absolutely devoured this book, tearing through it in one sitting. It’s unsettling, haunting, and beautifully written. The mounting tension and palpable terror permeate every word on every page. It might keep you up at night, but I suppose that’s kind of the point.

📚

What else should I be reading? Not just by Argentine writers, but in general. Please send me any and all recommendations, kthxbye.

Hot/Sad Girl Walks & Soundtracks

Summer is over, so I can resume my long walks around town, which means I can rehearse millions of conversations that might or might never happen in my head without dying of heat stroke.

I love walkable cities, and Buenos Aires is one of the best. I’m a huge fan of exploring by foot, chusmeando chic apartment buildings and interesting architectural details, and working things out on the remix (even if that means with myself).

Here are three walks I’m a fan of taking, and the corresponding soundtracks that I recommend tuning in to as a means of maximizing enjoyment (or suffering, if you’re on a sad girl walk instead of a hot girl walk. You know what? Hot girls can be sad, and vice versa. Just walk, gworl).

Walk 1: Barrio Parque

Barrio Parque - also known as Palermo Chico - is full of multi-million dollar real estate, tranquil winding streets, and sweet jasmine blooming everywhere. It’s the perfect place to fantasize about being part of the 1%, soak up aesthetically-pleasing homes, and disassociate without worrying that someone will nick your phone.

I recommend roaming its meandering roads while listening to the new Lucy Dacus album, with this and this song being my current favorites.

Walk 2: Cementerio de Chacarita

Brutalism, death, and wide open spaces. Consider it the perfectly dramatic backdrop to process tough emotions and really tap into your former (current?) emo kid vibe. As a former emo kid (who definitely used up a lot of disposable film on ~ artsy ~ shots of Target parking lots and at church basement punk shows), the Chacarita Cemetery is one of my favorite places in Buenos Aires. Even if it smells really funky on extra hot or humid days (sorry).

This is a place to maximize catharsis. Go for classic Olivia Rodrigo, especially this song - but this one also does the trick.

Walk 3: Microcentro*

Let me clarify: Walking around downtown Buenos Aires on a busy weekday will only serve to trigger every anxious nerve in your body. This walk must happen on a peaceful weekend day, when all the oficinistas are gone and you can admire the architectural mash-up un-rushed and unbothered. This will scratch your ~ cool ~ itch while ensuring you won’t run into any Carhartt-clad fuckbois/girls since to them, crossing Av. 9 de Julio is absolute anathema.

For this walk, we’re going to stick with boygenius and their singular, spectacular album. This song will most certainly be on loop, but this comes in a close second.

Bonus Track: Michelin Guide 2025

On Monday evening, the best and brightest of Argentina’s (actually, just Buenos Aires and Mendoza) culinary world gathered for the announcement of the second installment of the Michelin Guide. I don’t really care to go into mega-detail about the news, but I found it curious that my self-imposed rule of three for this week’s newsletter also applies, so… we’re going with it!

Each restaurant that was awarded a star last year maintained its status, with three new restaurants joining the ranks: Riccitelli Bistro and Angélica in Mendoza, and Crizia in Buenos Aires.

Three new restaurants earned green stars, which recognizes commitment to sustainability practices. Joining the ranks are Alcanfor in Buenos Aires and Osadía de Crear and Angélica in Mendoza.

As for the coveted Bib Gourmand — which highlights price/quality ratio — three more were welcomed into the fold, all in Buenos Aires. MN Santa Inés, which I’ve been dying to visit for ages, Ajo Negro, and Ácido received mentions in the category.

I have mixed feelings when it comes to awards and accolades in general, but I’ll celebrate anything that brings attention, tourism, and investment to Argentina. Let’s hope that things only continue to improve from here — and that locals won’t be priced out of the restaurants that they’ve supported from the beginning.

I’m going to let you go, since I’ve rambled too much anyway and I have a soup simmering on the stove that needs my attention (and probably more salt).

Remember, if you’re in Argentina and want to support Tutti Frutti, you can do so by clicking here. It means a lot and helps ensure that this project — and other ideas I might have brewing in my brain — can continue to run. It means a lot, perhaps more than you realize!

Here’s to staying sane, slutty, and silly.

Until next time,

Paige

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