#3: Vamos a tomar algo?

Something I cherish about living in Buenos Aires is the world of possibility that stems from open-ended social encounters.

It often goes like this: You look outside, see that the weather’s good, and text a friend to see if they’re free. After some back and forth you settle on a time and place, though those details are undoubtedly subject to change.

However, meeting para ir a tomar algo is just the jumping off point. From there, you never know exactly where you’re going to end up.

Typically, I’m not too keen on amorphous social arrangements. Spontaneity isn’t my strong suit. I’d much prefer to have a clear-cut idea of the whats, wheres, whens, whys, and hows beforehand.

This lack of definition might send a neurotic like me into a tizzy. Thankfully, I’ve seen the light and have learned to embrace the beauty of the rancheo, the joy of the loosely-defined hangs that can take you anywhere - or go absolutely nowhere and still be just as fun.

Rancheando is a close cousin to an Argentine phenomenon: the sobremesa. This is when you’re at a restaurant or someone’s home, and long after the meal is finished, everyone remains around the table chewing the proverbial fat for… ever.

(Fret not. There will most certainly be a separate Tutti Frutti dedicated to sobremesa culture in the near future.)

In the spirit of taking it easy, this week I’m sharing some of my favorite places to ranchear. If you’re in the neighborhood, pop by and stay a while.

My Favorite Places to Ranchear in Buenos Aires

✨ La Rambla

La Rambla needs no introduction. It’s the best place to start your day with a café con leche and the obituaries (don’t yuck my yum), and it’s ideal for an evening aperitivo followed by a steak sandwich or tortilla babé. It’s where I run into neighbors and friends, and where I eavesdrop on tourists sitting nearby, inviting myself into their conversation so I can give them tips on where to go.

La Rambla is quintessential Recoleta and to me, it’s absolutely perfect. Its corner offers a breezy respite on otherwise sweltering summer days, not to mention some of the best people + dog watching combination around. Once I’m situated at my favorite table, I’m in no rush to leave. After all, why would I be?

La Rambla - Posadas 1602 - Recoleta

✨ Cafe Tabac

I say this with only the slightest amount of hyperbole: I’m never more than five blocks from Av. del Libertador. So sue me! I will not be elaborating on this any further. So, if I’m too far from La Rambla and in need of a dose of chic porteño café culture, I’ll be here.

Situated on perhaps one of the city’s best-ever corners, Tabac is an institution. Roger, who has been there for as long as anyone can remember, is always there to welcome you with a handshake and some small talk before bringing out your usual order, which in my case is an Aperol Spritz that’s stronger than it looks. The same applies to the martinis - dangerously delicious. Consider yourselves warned.

Cafe Tabac - Av. del Libertador 2300 - Palermo

✨ Pain et Vin

Pain et Vin has been the backdrop of so many happy memories of mine. I’ve celebrated friendships, important milestones, new love, and so much more at this little wine bar. On hot summer nights I’ve posted up at the back patio and whiled away the hours underneath twinkle lights and surrounded by good conversation.

Much to the surprise of the uninitiated, a decade ago it wasn’t at all common to go out and drink wine by the glass. Pain et Vin pioneered the trend with a curated selection featuring up-and-coming winemakers alongside the classic stalwarts. Few things feel as fabulous as leaving work early on a balmy Friday and heading here to catch up with friends before seeing where the rest of the night takes you.

Pain et Vin - Gorriti 5132 - Palermo

✨ Casa Cavia

When I fantasize about the life where I was born into generational wealth and most certainly do not dream of labor, Casa Cavia features heavily. It’s hard not to believe your own delusions of grandeur when you’re ensconced in this historic mansion’s lush jungle courtyard sipping on a cheeky cocktail or cafecito.

Buenos Aires is textbook assault on the senses. It’s loud and frenetic and frankly, too much at times. Finding refuge amidst the chaos is essential, and if that refuge is straight out of a spread in Architectural Digest, even better. In the spirit of Diana Vreeland, why don’t you live out your best Lady Who Lunches™️ fantasy here and make no apologies for silencing your phone and ignoring absolutely every responsibility you have?

Casa Cavia - Cavia 2985 - Palermo

So… what about you? Where can I catch you posting up to watch the world go by and ponerse al día entre amigos?

See you then,

Paige

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