#6: De todo un poco

It’s fin de mes, which means bank accounts and energy reserves alike are running well below empty. Also, I’ve seen the sun approximately twice in the last ten days, which is really starting to grind my gears.

Since I’m struggling to synthesize my thoughts into a more cohesive narrative, I thought I’d prepare the equivalent of having a substitute teacher wheel in a giant TV and put on a movie rather than run an actual class. You know what I’m talking about.

Actually, no. This latest installment is a rather accurate reflection of how my brain works: Dozens of narrative threads humming along 24/7, sometimes interrelated (sometimes not in the slightest), of equal interest and importance (to me, at least), and that I’m always extremely eager to share with other people.

So without further ado, read on and enjoy.

Festejos de la Argentinidad

Since we last met here, we’ve celebrated two hallmark dates in honor of all things Argentine: Día del Cine Argentino and Día del Obelisco

🚬 Dia del Cine Argentino

Argentina knows how to make a film, let me tell you. One of the courses I took during my semester abroad in 2007 was New Wave Argentine Cinema and even though I don’t remember much - save for the hot professor smoking in the hallway on breaks? - it piqued my interest big time and made a lasting impact.

Five of my favorite Argentine films:

• Nueve Reinas (Nine Queens): The perfect primer that teaches you all you need to know about la viveza criolla, Argentine cunning and a knack for always seeking an advantage, no matter the means necessary. Also, it features a young(er) Ricardo Darín, which is reason enough for me.

• Cuando Acecha la Maldad (When Evil Lurks): I typically can’t do horror films, simply because I’m a huge giant weenie scaredy cat. This one is a slow burn, instilling such a sense of unease that it doesn’t need to rely on over-the-top gore or violence to make its point.

• La Ciénaga (The Swamp): All hail director Lucrecia Martel. One of the first Argentine movies I ever saw, La Ciénaga has this languid and sultry if not stagnant pace where everything moves like honey. It creates an expectant atmosphere that perfectly underscores the theme of domestic decay. No notes!

• El Secreto de Sus Ojos (The Secret in Their Eyes): Who doesn’t love an old-fashioned murder mystery, ripe with suspense? There’s a reason this film won the Oscar; it’s a mesmerizing journey between past and present. Also, Ricardo Darín. Need I say more?

• Un Novio para Mi Mujer (A Boyfriend for My Wife): Ok, this one might lack critical prestige, but I don’t care. Most of Adrián Suar’s work is deeply derivative and one-dimensional, but this film stands up if only because it gave us la Tana Ferro, one of my favorite characters of all time.

🇦🇷 Día del Obelisco

Designed by architect Alberto Prebisch, built in just 60 days, and inaugurated on May 23, 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Buenos Aires, she’s kind of hard to miss.

It’s where we go to celebrate, to protest, and in my case, to pretend that I’m back home in Washington, DC. A parody Twitter account is dedicated to the McDonald’s located there, an often unwilling participant in - and victim of - the myriad historic events that have taken place in its vicinity.

👉 On July 9, 2007, snow fell in Buenos Aires for the first time in 89 years. It was magical and ridiculous and a spontaneous moment of playfulness. Where did we all go to share the wonder (yes, I was there!)? El Obelisco, duh.

👉 On July 13, 2014, Argentina lost the World Cup final to Germany. We were bereft, in a daze, and not really sure what to do. Where did we set off in a somber march? El Obelisco, duh.

👉 On December 18, 2022, Argentina won the World Cup final against France. The sense of collective jubilation, pure, unadulterated bliss, and absolute euphoria swept over the entire country like a wildly gesticulating wave. Where did millions of people decide to go, acting on a mix of instinct, muscle memory, and a sense of national unity? El Obelisco, duh.

Here are some of my favorite Obelisco pics:

Gal About Town

Something that never ceases to amaze me? No matter how tough things become here, creativity and entrepreneurship persevere. In fact, it’s so often in these times of extreme crisis that the most innovative and exciting projects rise to the surface. It’s perhaps one of the qualities I cherish the most about Argentine people and their culture.

Like, if someone can open up a full-blown restaurant in this economic context, I can surely send the three emails sitting in my Drafts folder. Right?

Lately, I’ve had the good fortune to visit many of these new (or new to me) spots and wanted to share them with you, just because.

⚓ Amarra

I was gutted when Chila closed its doors - it was my favorite fine dining experience in Buenos Aires. But! I was thrilled to watch it evolve and morph into a new project and was chuffed to finally try it for myself. Amarra offers an experiential five-course tasting menu that showcases premium local ingredients prepared with global techniques and inspiration.

Everything I ate and drank was utterly fabulous, even if I did consider requesting I be taken to my taxi in a wheelbarrow at the end of the night. The service was the veritable cherry on top, supremely professional but with a characteristically punk streak. My favorite dishes? Grilled octopus with Moroccan pesto and the crispy rice with red chimichurri - something about that crunchy texture that just works. Special mention to the mobile dessert cart that presents a Choose Your Own Adventure experience, your childhood dreams come to life.

Amarra - Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1160 - Puerto Madero

🌳 Alcanfor

Fancy dinners can be fun, but at the end of the day what sticks with me above all else is the feeling of honest warmth and seriously good hospitality. If a restaurant can transmit that through the ether, I consider it a success. Alcanfor is a deeply personal project for chef Julián Galende, whose impressive career had him working with heavyweights Mauro Colagreco and David Toutain in France before returning to Argentina.

It’s like having dinner at the home of your highly-skilled chef friend who has access to incredible seasonal ingredients, chic mood lighting, a great wine list, and really nice glassware. Kind of the best scenario you could imagine, if you ask me. All of the good stuff without the pretentious snobbery. We’ve had enough of that already, don’t you think?

Alcanfor - Aguirre 949 - Villa Crespo

🥘 Mess

You might be surprised to learn this: Argentina’s Armenian diaspora is one of the world’s largest, so you’ll never be too far from a good muhammara or juicy dolma. However, most of the restaurants serving comida armenia are on the old school side, no bells and whistles to be found.

Thank god for Mess, then. Seriously. Located in Pilar - about 45 km north of downtown BA - it’s certainly what self-centered porteños would consider “a trek” but is 100% worth braving the traffic for. Wow. Absolutely every dish was a home run; it was almost like I was trying Armenian cuisine for the first time. Don’t sleep on the homemade naan, the decadent baklava, or anything in between. The service, wines, and ambiance round it out to make for an unforgettable evening.

Mess - Los Crisantemos 392 - Pilar

🇭🇰 El Wok

My new favorite outing takes place in an extremely nondescript Chinese restaurant in the residential neighborhood of Villa Urquiza. Run by the sweetest Cantonese couple, El Wok is so good I’ve been twice in less than three weeks. To the uninitiated, it’s a standard Chinese takeaway joint, but if you’re #blessed enough to have some inside info (which you are now, so, you’re welcome), an entirely new experience awaits.

Get in touch via WhatsApp to reserve the small salón for you and seven of your favorite people. Using limited Spanish, the owner will ask you to choose which dishes you’d like. You’ll browse around 50 photos to decide, which is harder than it sounds. No matter what, you need the mapo tofu, the eggplant with minced pork, chili chicken in garlic sauce, and basically any pan-fried noodle. Ask for the hot sauce that’s so spicy you’ll see into another dimension. Not for beginners. Oh, and if you’re in the mood to go real hardcore, they let you smoke inside. Hey, I don’t make the rules!

El Wok - Av. Monroe 5463 - Villa Urquiza

🍪 Pampa

I love the Bajo Belgrano neighborhood. I don’t usually find myself over there on a regular basis, but its lush green spaces, high-end real estate, and overall zen vibes make it a perfect spot for a sunny stroll and sweet treat. Luckily, I have a new excuse to find myself in the vicinity.

Enter uber-new arrival Pampa (its doors opened just last weekend). Run by the dream team behind Piedra Pasillo, Mauer, and more, everything from the interior design to the menu and the vegetable garden out back are just perfect. I’m willing to do whatever it takes to get my paws on a chocolate and sesame cookie that changed my life (no hyperbole here). And if you’ve grown tired of specialty coffee, you’ll love their tea selection curated by the one and only Inés Berton.

Pampa - La Pampa 1117 - Belgrano

So there you go. Just a little taste of what’s been happening in my orbit as of late. Lots of good things, happy moments, delicious meals, shared laughter. Despite the rest, there’s still so much to cherish and to celebrate. Let’s not lose sight of that, yeah?

Until next time,

Paige

NB: It’s going to be a very long and very cold winter season here in Buenos Aires. The economic crisis only makes things worse, especially among the most vulnerable and underserved populations. A local soup kitchen, el Comedor de Santi, is currently accepting donations (blankets, warm coats, non-perishable goods). If you can, consider supporting the very important work they do.

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