#15: One liver transplant, please

Party’s over.

Back to reality.

The whirlwind Summer ‘24 European tour has come to a close.

Re-entry is always a bit tough. Perhaps it feels especially acute this time around since it had been so long since I’d taken such an ambitious, exciting trip.

Nothing beats the feeling of returning home to my own bed (and to Pocho), but it’s hard not to yearn for that proximity to friends and family - and the seductive allure of el primer mundo.

But hey, it’s not all doom and gloom!

Things I’m thankful for:

• Being able to bop around so many incredible places for a whole month

• Spending so much time with beloved friends and family who were kind enough to let us invade their routines

• The cozy guest rooms and couches where we rested our weary heads after walking 20+ kilometers every day in the heat

• The chance to celebrate my birthday in one of the world’s most beautiful places by swimming in the sea, eating sea urchin and Basque cheesecake, and dreaming about the future

• Actually disconnecting from the slog of everyday life and simply enjoying each day as it came

I don’t think I realized just how burned out I was (am), and giving myself the permission to stop worrying about ~ everything ~ so I could just be present in every moment was the biggest gift of all.

That’s also probably why coming back stung a little bit more, too.

What I missed while I was gone:

• Dogs, dogs, dogs - and more dogs

• Gossiping with doormen and local shopkeepers

• My daily coffee & obituaries at La Rambla

• Waking up to the morning light illuminating my apartment

Anyway, here you go: a roundup of the second half of what proved to be a spectacular adventure.

🌊 Week 3: Lisbon & Porto

I first went to Portugal 13 years ago (!) on my honeymoon (!!), so I guess you could say I was overdue for a visit.

What’s not to love about a country that’s mastered the art of ceramic tiles, has fantastic wine, and is still somehow super-affordable? Jury’s still out on those goddamned hills, though. (And I definitely prefer Brazilian Portuguese, sorry not sorry.)

While I struggled to assimilate the sheer volume of tourists crawling the streets of Lisbon, I found myself utterly enchanted by smaller, quirkier Porto.

The icing on the cake? Seeing dear friends that have chosen Portugal as their new home base. It was a treat to get a glimpse at the shiny new lives they’re building and catch up over everything we missed from the last year or two.

🇵🇹 Top 3 Portugal Moments

🍌 Decorative Banana

When it comes to shopping while abroad, my maxim is simple: just buy it. I’ve found you always regret the things you don’t purchase on a trip, and there’s really no reason to put yourself through that misery anyway.

I’m a sucker for good ceramics, and the moment I walked into Bordallo Pinheiro I knew I was toast.

A brief list of the things I wanted to snap up:

• Cabbage pitcher with lobsters

• Vase with snails climbing up the sides

• Giant artichoke platter

• Watermelon salad bowl

• Mushroom-shaped box

• Fish-shaped pitcher

The pièce de résistance? Oh man. Oh man! This was when I wished I had much deeper pockets - and a much emptier suitcase.

Allow me to introduce…. the banana centerpiece.

The prospect of lugging it around for two more weeks wasn’t very exciting, either. Also, it was nearly $600. Insert sad trombone noise here.

So, I did the next best thing. I bought a singular banana-shaped decorative box, where I can hide things like candy and matchbooks. Simply looking at it brings me joy. Maybe one day I’ll be able to call that ridiculous centerpiece mine, but for now lil bb banana and I are going to be just fine.

🥘 Feasts (Multiple)

Many delicious meals were had in Portugal. In fact, I don’t think we had one bad bite while we were there. It was the perfect opportunity to feast on fresh seafood, spicy curries, and bodegón-esque bites that made me a little nostalgic for Buenos Aires.

Few things bother me more than squandering a meal and wasting my appetite on something that’s either underwhelming, overrated, or simply blah. When I’m traveling, this sensation intensifies exponentially, and I tend to do lots of intensive pre-departure research so I’m ready to go the minute I touch down.

This time around, I didn’t do much of that. Maybe it was because we were making so many stops it felt overwhelming, maybe the burnout had something to do with it. I did rest easy, though, knowing that our friends would lead us in the right direction.

I’m not going to subject you to a play-by-play of everything I ate that week, so here’s the top three:

• Bifana at O Trevo: This spot has managed to stay relatively local, despite a recommendation from Anthony Bourdain (RIP) and a prime location in the heart of tourist insanity. Staff barely speaks English, they’re kind of mean (but in the nice way, you know?), and don’t you dare try to pay with card. This humble emblematic sandwich is best enjoyed drizzled with spicy piri piri oil and mustard and washed down with an ice cold beer.
  

• Scallops at Casa dos Passarinhos: Our friends’ apartment in Lisbon is perfectly located in an area that is flat (!), removed from the crazy crowds (!), and around the corner from one of my new favorite restaurants (!). I’d been craving seafood, but didn’t want or need the bells and whistles of a trendy hotspot mentioned in the latest travel mag. This place was absolutely perfect. It’s been around for ages and ages, the waiters only speak Portuguese, and so do most of the customers for that matter. Pair it with some vinho verde and excellent conversation and you’ve got yourself a dream night.
  

• Sushi at Dozo: It was 90 degrees and I was craving sushi, red tuna in particular. This petit sushi bar was tucked away just a few blocks from the hustle and bustle, providing the perfect refuge to soothe both our souls and stomachs. Nothing fancy, just a focus on high-quality product and flavor. It was just what I needed and then some. Sometimes you just want to sit down and eat something amazing without any fanfare or fuss, you know?
  

• Matar Paneer at Natraj: By now you should know I’m always going to be in the mood for a curry. One thing I recalled from my first trip to Lisbon, in fact, was how much I preferred it to Barcelona based on the amount of Indian restaurants the city had. (Hey, at least I’m consistent?) I may have had a very full belly afterwards - is there a thing as too much ghee? she wonders - but it was 100% worth it.

🎰 Porto Surprise

Lisbon is lovely, but Porto is… perfection? OK, maybe that’s over-simplifying it, but whatever. The two nights spent there were so delightful I would have tacked on another if the schedule allowed for it.

Sadly, hundreds of wildfires raged across the country’s northern regions, so we arrived to a smoky, ashy Porto that certainly felt a little eerie - to say the least. However, I was quickly captivated by the city’s smaller scale, its unbothered bohemian vibes, and the beautiful architecture-river view combo.

We stumbled into charming tascas, people-watched on cool corners, contemplated the views at golden hour, and soaked up the slower pace. Also, it wins big points for signage aesthetics! Kind of a niche thing to care about, maybe, but I’m sure some of you can appreciate that.

One of Lau’s close friends happens to be from Porto and was the consummate tour guide, showing us all of the cool B-side spots that were totally up our alley:

• Fundação Serralves: If you go to Porto, run - do NOT walk - to this fabulous foundation/modern art museum. Give yourself plenty of time to romp around its extensive gardens, explore the immaculate art deco villa, and see the work of some serious heavy hitters on display. After you’re done, take a quick Uber down to Foz to soak up the sunshine along the coast over a glass of wine.
  

• Fiasco: This listening bar boasts sultry red lighting and a clientele much cooler than I will ever be. A great cocktail list, bonkers vinyl library, and laid-back vibe rounded things out; a dreamy way to close out an evening spent eating and drinking our way across the city. If you’re looking to get your mojo back, find yourself a seat here.
  

• Jardins do Palácio de Cristal: Peacocks! Stunning river views! Elaborate fountains! Manicured lawns! This place has it all. It’s a dreamy way to start or end your day by taking a meditative stroll around and pretending that all this land belongs to you. You’ll quickly remember that it doesn’t, and that you’re probably doomed be a renter for the rest of your life, but these gardens help ameliorate that pain.
  

• Bingo: A true highlight of our time in Porto was a late-night visit to the local bingo hall. Let me tell you, they take things ~ very ~ seriously there; no funny business will be tolerated under any circumstances. Everything, from the weird 1980s architecture (heavy on the chrome accents) to the rapid-fire number reading done by a mystery woman somewhere upstairs, was the bees knees. Sadly, we walked away empty-handed, but the memory of being scolded by an old man in Portuguese will live on in my heart forever.
  
  

  

  The local bingo hall definitely slaps

🦐 Week 4: Madrid & Basque Country

I’ve loved Spain ever since I discovered Almodóvar (OK, and Penélope Cruz). However, I’d barely seen any of it, having only been to Barcelona for a handful of days on the aforementioned honeymoon many moons ago.

I was eager to take a lap around Madrid - albeit for 36 hours - before sinking my teeth (and liver) into el país vasco. It’s a gastronomic Mecca after all, a region I’ve dreamt of for decades thanks to its cuisine, ancient (and bizarre) language, and seaside landscapes.

An added bonus was spending time with more #frandz who recently emigrated from Argentina to become madrileños in their own right. Bopping around town with them on a Friday night felt so familiar and easy, I’d be lying if I said I didn’t toy with the fantasy of following in their footsteps.

Though I’m not sure I’d ever be able to listen to someone speak Spanish to me with a lisp and manage to keep a straight face, so there’s that.

🇵🇹 Top 4 Spain Moments

🎨 Bilbao Blurt

Bilbao was a no-brainer if only for the Guggenheim. It lived up to expectations and then some; I nearly pinched myself while taking in Frank Gehry’s brilliance upon realizing I was actually there, finally, in the flesh.

There’s definitely a gritty side to Bilbao, though. Maybe it’s the city’s lingering industrial legacy, maybe it’s because Basque people are kind of grumpy and intimidating. The vibe kind of reminded me of kuidaore - literally, eating and drinking yourself to ruin - associated with the epicurean culture of Osaka, Japan.

Basically, you’ve got all of these fabulous restaurants and bars lined up next to each other, where the approach to eating falls something along the lines of “the limit does not exist.” It’s all fun and games until someone has one caña too many and ends up puking on a random corner. That part? Not my cup of tea.

Redemption came in the form of Bar Bilbao, a gem of a spot located in the heart of the Casco Viejo, on Plaza Nueva. From the Yves Klein blue facade to the mega-fresh pintxos lined up like little soldiers to the kindhearted waiters who waited patiently for me to decide my order, it was where I wanted to spend nearly every meal. The café con leche and tostado mixto we had for breakfast one day was enough to rival any bar notable in Buenos Aires, let me tell you.

I also scratched my oyster itch at El Puertito, so we’ll give them a shout out too. Oh, and the badass bitches that run the show at Santamaría - they know what’s up.

🎂 Birthday in San Sebastián

If you ask me, nothing beats being out of town on your birthday. No pressure to host a party, no insecurity about not receiving enough phone calls or messages from friends and family, and the fact that you’re starting a new year on Earth in a cool destination = me cierra por todos lados.

My birthday this year was in fact perfect - no notes! San Sebastián is one of the most objectively beautiful cities I’ve ever visited, and the impeccable weather made everything that much better. Following breakfast at the aptly named Café con Leche, we made our way down to the beach for an impromptu swim. Bluebird skies, bright sunshine, azure waters, just enough waves… I couldn’t have asked for anything else.

For lunch, yet another serving of erizo (sea urchin) and txangurro (crab) from Bar Sport, my undisputed favorite of all the pintxo bars. Cake came in the form of the superlative torta vasca from La Viña, so velvety and fluffy I was ready to take flight. Afterwards, more time on the beach was had with some seaside sangrias and leisurely swimming.

Dinner was at Bodegón Alejandro, where I supped on a sublime version of txipirones en su tinta and washed it down with an uber-crisp bottle of txakolina. I was sunkissed, a bit buzzed, relaxed, and deeply happy. Feliz cumple a mí, here’s to 38.

🥾 Climbing San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

One of the reasons we wanted to spend more than just a day in Bilbao was so we could venture an hour up toward the coast to visit this landmark. Apparently it was featured in Game of Thrones so flocks of tourists now descend upon it in high season, but luckily that wasn’t the case when we were there.

Gaztelugatxe is an islet nestled on the Bay of Biscay, connected to the mainland by a winding man-made bridge. A small hermitage dedicated to St. John the Baptist sits at the top, dating from the 9th or 10th century. It’s nothing short of a trek to reach it - 241 steps up a rocky, narrow path - but the views are undoubtedly worth it.

(Also take note that the 241 steps in question are the least of your worries - you should be more concerned with the crazy steep trail you’ve got to walk to actually reach the steps. Be prepared to break a sweat.)

It actually took my breath away, that’s how stunning it was. Something about the rough seas and the rugged coastline, the golden light, and the wind whipping around me felt all-enveloping, otherworldly, and completely reinvigorating. A literal and metaphorical breath of fresh air that was an unexpected highlight of an already all-star itinerary.

💎 Bonus: Vichy Catalán

Listen, I’ve already written way too many words about this trip and am not even sure if they’re any good. So rather than gab on and on about how nobody jaywalks in London, why the Portuguese don’t seem to love dogs as much as the Spanish and Italians, or the moral and aesthetic superiority of Icelandic tap water, I thought I’d write a brief homage to my new one true love.

Vichy Catalán sparkling water. What can’t a bottle of it do?! Thanks to the minerals it contains, you can settle an uneasy stomach, replenish your electrolytes, and even boost your mood (it does contain lithium after all). Also it kind of tastes like the ocean?

If you had one croqueta de jamón too many, are feeling a bit wobbly after a late-night marathon of morcilla and tortilla, or are simply craving a non-alcoholic beverage that feels like a treat, Vichy Catalán will never let you down. Here’s to the MVP that changed the game for me. Sparkle on, little boo. Thanks for all that you do.

That’s it! Well, actually there’s so much more material I could have shared but honestly, who wants that much content? (Do you? Do you want that much content? Plz reply and let me know.)

The laundry is finally done, and my sleep schedule has finally normalized. So what’s next? My first trip of the high season with Wild Terrains, naturally!

I’m off to Mendoza on Friday, so I’ve been trying to soak up the calm vibes at my apartment, enjoy petting Pocho’s velvet-soft ears, and prepare for what promises to be a very busy (and hopefully, very fun!) 10 days or so.

Slowly but surely folks, we’re getting back into the groove.

Thanks for hanging out, you’re a good egg.

Until next time,

Paige

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