#29: Across the pond

Hello from the other side, everyone!

Of the pond, that is.

I’m currently in London visiting my sister and leaning into English springtime, cheap curries, and pub lunches. Sometimes you just need to get out of town to clear your head and dive into a bit of a reset, you know?

But not to worry — I haven’t forgotten about you, dear readers. We’ve got another installment of the 🍒 Tutti Frutti Questionnaire 🍒 all ready for you.

In this segment, I like to feature a ciudadano/a ilustre, someone that plays an essential part in making Buenos Aires the unique and unforgettable place that I love so much. A person whose own vision of (and relationship to) the city inspires me to keep seeking out its hidden gems, stories, and characters.

I have a feeling you’re really going to like this round, so have at it and dive in.

🥁 Introducing… Celina Bartolome

Want to know who is responsible for putting skin contact wine on the map in Buenos Aires? You’re looking at her (well, scroll down a bit). It’s hard for me to describe Celina in just a few words, but just know she’s one of the coolest and nuttiest people I’ve ever met.

Back before the whole “vino y platitos” trend began to surge in a big way, Celi was driving all over town, her trunk full of Pielihueso Naranjo. She spent months sipping and serving her way into the hearts - and wine lists - of the city’s best restaurants and bars.

Then suddenly, posting a snap of its uber-hip label (all of which are designed by two of Celi’s siblings Ale and Carmela) to your Insta stories signified that you were one of the cool kids. People who had never been big wine drinkers, let alone natural wine drinkers, found themselves clamoring for a bottle of the family-run bodega’s signature orange.

And the rest, they say, is history.

Celi loves Taylor Swift, her girlfriend Nacha, hosting asados, and wearing bright colors. Her tiny rescue dog Dibu is too precious for words, and you wouldn’t think twice about wanting to move in to her AD-worthy house in Villa Ortúzar.

You can follow along with all of Celi’s incredible food- and wine-fueled adventures over on Instagram. You should also buy and drink her wine, Pielihueso.

🍒 Tutti Frutti Questionnaire, Vol. 2

Without further ado, I present the Tutti Frutti Questionnaire. Inspired by and adapted from the timeless Proust Questionnaire, naturally.

Conveniently available in both Spanish & English, for all your bilingual needs. Check out Vol. 1 here.

1. ¿Cuál es tu calle favorita de Buenos Aires?

Para no dar la respuesta fácil (y real) y decir Melián, diría una calle muy cerca, en el límite entre Colegiales y Belgrano R, que se llama Zárraga. Es una calle corta que, al chocar con Superí, termina en una plazoleta chiquita con una fuentecita en el medio. Fue mi primer hogar porteño y nada me gusta mas que las calles que delimitan barrios, tenés un poquito de ambos en cada cuadra.

2. ¿Cuáles son las cualidades que te enamoran de la ciudad?

Demasiadas! Me gustan los restaurantes, los viejos y los nuevos, los cafés y las parrillas, que haya programas para hacer todos los días, poder caminar de la mano con mi novia sin que me pase nada, los bazares, la diversidad cultural. Poder comer comida china, peruana, boliviana, yanqui, japonesa cuando te dé la gana, me gustan los museos, sobre todo el Moderno, y las carnicerías y las verdulerías.

3. Si murieras y volvieras en forma de barrio porteño, ¿cuál serías?

No me queda otra que decir Villa Ortúzar, donde vivo. Me encanta sentir que vivo en un barrio que se siente barrio, casi hermético, me gustan los vínculos que se crean acá con vecinos y con comerciantes. Al mismo tiempo estás al toque de Belgrano, Chacarita y Colegiales y podés ir a Anafe caminando. Sí soy!

4. ¿Dónde se sirve el mejor café de la ciudad?

Vive Café.

5. ¿Cuáles son tus escritores argentinos favoritos?

Me gusta mucho Cecilia Pavón y Maria Gainza (gracias Valen por el libro!).

6. Para vos, ¿cómo se ve un “perfecto momento porteño”?

Salir a comprar carbón y carne una mañana de un feriado, en el medio parar a tomar un café, atravesar una plaza, y sentarte en un banco a que te dé el sol en la cara, sabiendo que no hay ningún apuro.

7. Buenos Aires: ¿de día, o de noche?

De día los findes, de noche los días de semana.

8. ¿Qué cambiarías de Buenos Aires, y qué es lo que te gustaría que no cambie jamás?

Me encantaría no darle tanto la espalda al río y que haya políticas publicas que cuiden nuestro patrimonio cultural y edilicio. Y que nunca cambie, el humor de los porteños: “cómo estoy!? Y cómo querés que esté?!” Porteño dixit.

9. ¿El mejor souvenir o recuerdo que una persona se pueda llevar de Buenos Aires?

Una camiseta de Boca trucha de la calle Florida y obviamente un vino.

10. ¿Cuál es tu lema?

Algo que escuché hoy: he visto a un malo convertirse en bueno, pero nunca a un boludo en inteligente. Pero el de verdad: Sólo se vive una vez (cantado).

🇦🇷 Ahora, in English

1. What’s your favorite street in Buenos Aires?

To avoid the obvious (yet real) answer by saying Av. Melián, I’d have to name one that’s close by, on the border of Colegiales and Belgrano R, called Zárraga. It’s a short little street that, when it hits Superí, ends in a small square that has a fountain in the middle. My first home in Buenos Aires was on Zárraga. I love nothing more than the streets that separate barrios, as they give you a little bit of both on every block.

2. What qualities make you fall in love with a city?

Too many! I love the restaurants, both old and new, the cafés and the parrillas, that there’s something to do every day of the week, being able to walk down the street with my girlfriend without worrying, the kitchen variety stores, the cultural diversity. Being able to eat Chinese, Peruvian, Bolivian, American, or Japanese food whenever you want. I love the museums - especially el Moderno, and the butchers and vegetable stands.

3. If you were to die and come back as a barrio porteño, which would it be?

I have no other choice but to say Villa Ortúzar, where I live now. I love feeling like I live in a barrio that’s still a barrio, almost like it’s sealed off from the rest of the city. I love the bonds that we’ve created here among neighbors and shopkeepers. At the same time, you’re super close to Belgrano, Chacarita, and Colegiales, and yes — you can walk to Anafe. So sue me!

4. Where’s the best cup of coffee in BA served?

Vive Café.

5. Who are your favorite Argentine writers?

I really like Cecilia Pavón and María Gainza (Valen, thanks for the book!).

6. Name a quintessential BA moment.

Going out to buy charcoal and meat on the morning of a bank holiday, stopping for a coffee on the way, walking through a plaza, and sitting on a bench so the sun can hit your face, knowing there’s no rush to get anywhere.

7. Buenos Aires by day, or by night?

By day on the weekends, by night during the week.

8. What would you change about Buenos Aires, and what do you hope stays the same?

I wish the city didn’t turn its back on the river so much, and that there were policies in place that actually protected the historic buildings and cultural heritage. I never want porteño humor to change: “How am I?! How do you want me to be?!” Porteño dixit.

9. The best souvenir or memory a person can take from Buenos Aires?

A counterfeit Boca Jrs. jersey from calle Florida and obviously a bottle of wine.

10. What is your motto?

Something I heard today: I’ve seen a bad guy become a good guy, but never an idiot that’s become intelligent. But for real: You only live once.

Thanks for tuning in! I’ll be back in two weeks with another installment of Tutti Frutti. In the meantime, if you’d like to nominate a fellow ciudadano ilustre for future questionnaires, I’m all ears.

Until next time,

Paige

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